Archives for category: Travel

After leaving Gili, we headed to Amed which is on the east coast of Bali. Because Bali is an island of active volcanos it has black beaches. Never having seen any before, this was something we wanted to see. Armed with a hotel recommendation from our hosts in Ubud, we headed to Amed from Gili. Here’s what we found.

Welcome to the Villa Coral, our home for the night.

Inside the villa. Outdoor washroom out the back, upstairs loft with my bedroom and balcony. Jacques was king of this villa (seemed only fair).

The view from our villa. Incredible to be right on the beach.

We lucked out again. Room, view, sunshine.

Visit from a friend on the restaurant wall. Maybe he had an offering to make.

Peak-a-boo from behind a painting hung on the restaurant wall.

Amed. A string of beach side hotels/restaurants and family compounds. There's a lot of diving and snorkelling to be had here. The water is crystal clear and very salty. You'll find Amed salt all over the island.

The beach in front of our villa.

Mount Agung. It last erupted in 1963 and was quite devastating. But as Wayan was saying today, it also provided Bali with a lot of building materials (stone, pebbles, etc.)

So many shades of green. Such a lush environment.

Cutting through a corn field.

Kids are kids are kids. Out playing soccer.

We could have easily stayed here a few more days. But, it was time to head back to Ubud for the last couple of nights of Jacques’ time in Bali.

 

The Gili’s are 3 little islands just off the coast of Lombok (which is the island to the east of Bali in the Indonesian archipelago). It’s about a 90 minute fast boat ride (7 hours if you take the slow boat) from Bali. I had no idea about them, but one of Jacques’ friends had told him going there was a must. And thank goodness for that! The three islands are called Gili Air, Gili Meno (the smallest one) and Gili Trawangan (the largest one). We headed for Gili Trawangan – which in the high season is the ‘party’ island. This being the low season, it was pretty quiet, with just a couple of bars busy at night.

When I say it’s the largest of the islands….it’s still very small. Jacques and I went for a run one day, along the road that hugs the shore around the island…7 km total – that’s the distance around the island. There are no motorized vehicles on the islands (thankfully) so everything is done with man, woman and pony power. It’s an interesting mixture of the tourist crowd with locals who live a pretty simple life.  Have a look.

Fresh off the boat and onto our ride (pony express) to the hotel, which is on the north coast of the island.

Transport? Transport? Does anyone need transport?

Our hotel offers us a 'welcome drink' upon arrival - pineapple orange juice. Delicious. And yes, please, I'll have it on the beach deck

Again I've traded one paradise for another.

Again I've traded one paradise for another.

View from my bed.

When you're tired of swimming in the Bali Sea, you can swim in the hotel pool. Most of the time it was like we had it to ourselves.

The hotel restaurant, seen from the pool deck.

All in all, a pretty luxurious place. A vacation from our Bali vacation. Relaxation, sunshine, food.Then we walked around the island and I found myself wondering how the locals really feel about all this. Here’s a snapshot of their lives.

I am amazed how much these women can carry on their heads - and always with such grace!

Really, every shape and size - carried on their heads.

Manpower. With a load of freshly cut bamboo.

She said hello to every tourist that walked by, wanting only a hello in return. They learn young who the tourist is and what that means to their economy.

Just hanging out on a sunny morning. He gave us the thumbs up as we walked by, and a big smile. So damn cute!

Just about everything needs to be brought over from Lombok. And with all those tourists to keep happy and hydrated....that's a lot of bottled water. Everything that comes on the island needs to make its way off. How do you keep up with the never-ending pile-up of empties?

Just about everything needs to be brought over from Lombok. And with all those tourists to keep happy and hydrated....that's a lot of bottled water. Everything that comes on the island needs to make its way off. How do you keep up with the never-ending pile-up of empties? Makes a girl wonder... Tourism gives a lot to their economy, but at what cost?

Feeling a little better seeing some of the empties make their way off the island. Just after passing us by, these were loaded onto a boat going to Lombok. There must be a steady stream of these shipments.

Typical local street.

 

Families have roosters, chickens and goats on their land.

Even the tourist beaches have rules - no going topless here. Good thing I brought more than one bikini and managed to hold onto my tops (and not lose them like I did in Spain....)

As we head to the boat to leave the island, cows are having breakfast on the side of the road.

 

Thank you Gili Trawangan. We loved every second of our time there.

 

Eat. Pray. Love. Most, if not all, of us have read the book and/or seen the movie. I will admit it, it’s one of the reasons I wanted to come to Bali. And while here I, of course, wanted to find Ketut. Does he say ‘see you later alligator’? How old is he really? What’s he actually like? What would he say to me? Mission accomplished. Jacques and I found him easily enough while walking around Ubud.  I am sure that as I sat waiting to see him I had a huge smile on my face. Question #1 answered. Yes, he does actually say ‘see you later alligator’, which he said to someone who was leaving as we sat down to wait our turn.

I can say that Ketut is a charmer. Very sweet with loads of charisma. I can see why so many people have come to see him over his lifetime. He lets you know that whether what he sees when he reads your palm is good or bad, he’ll tell you. Luckily, nothing too terrible came out of my reading. Apparently I will live to be 100 years old. When it comes to work I will do many things, and have success with all of it. I’m impatient (can’t argue with that). I have very, very good energy and will not have accidents. And I’ll get married again and be with him until I die. Bring it! Ketut also went on to say that I am very pretty, and that he is 99 years old and”cannot make sex anymore”. Damn. There goes my chance. So much for my love affair in Bali!

And then he told me that I am a Queen. And here I was giving myself a hard time for having a “princess complex”. The problem isn’t that I have grandiose ideas, it’s that I’m not aiming high enough! Queen Lise it is.

He’s a busy man. We got there just at the right time, only having to wait for one person to see him. While we were waiting another 3 walked in – from all corners of the world. Russian, Eastern European (not sure from where) and American.

I’m still smiling when I think of him. He’d been sick recently, but luckily he’s feeling good again.

My reading with Ketut

As part of the reading Ketut looks at the top of your back. When Jacques turned around he said “you bald!” and laughed so hard he forgot where he was in the reading and started over. It was too cute.

I love the outdoor washroom. Think of it. A washroom au naturel. No lingering odors, always fresh air, a shower under the stars, don’t need a bath mat – so no worries about getting it too wet (Carla), no shower stall to scrub or floor to clean. Of course it only really works in tropical locations…but wouldn’t it be nice?

Love, love, love the shower

This shower really is very, very nice.

The view from the shower.

 

Made it! To my grand joy Lise was waiting at the airport with my taxi, good thing seeing he had forgotten the billboard with my name… We got to the house it was past 1 am and all i could see was vegetation! So i was looking forward to getting up in the morning to see where i would be calling home for a week or so!

I have heard in a movie that everyone has a love affair in Bali…. i have had mine! For the first 2 days we got monsoon like rain! Oh wait Lise why Bali in the rainy season?? oh yeah you live in rain all year round Vancouver…. So i take it mother nature knew something i didn’t, i needed to sleep, whether Lise liked it or not! So lucky for me my love affair was with my pillow!  days of mostly sleeping and now i am feeling somewhat human again! Lise didn’t seem to mind as i was awake to make her laugh for at least a few hours a day! When Lise told me she had found our spot in Ubud and sent me the link to their website i had complete faith and can’t even remember if i opened the link… You tell me did she pick right? here is my little room which has its private bath tub connected to a garden. The room is off the main office of the complex, by complex i mean a really nice house occupied by the two owners, the office and my studio room and the villa Lise is staying in. Of course her majesty the queen ( i did not give her this name! more on that later) had the villa!

Bed + Shower, notice it's surrounded by windows....

Bath with private garden! well private until i realized owners could see out of the corner, will be closing the curtains for my showers now...

and my wake up view

all in ll i am very pleased with the queen’s selection! we have access to an infinity pool which like most of the complex’s gardens, has a view of a gorge filled with rice paddies! I’ll let her majesty fill you in on the rest! i am going back to the balcony, music and my cold drink!

🙂

Bali is known for its cultural celebrations and ceremonies – they happen almost daily. Some are small, some are large and there’s every size in between. Saturday, January 7th was what they call ‘an auspicious day for trees’, so offerings were made to trees. It also happened to be a day where two of the local villages (I’m in a village 15 minutes outside of Ubud) were having ceremonies. In the morning a neighbouring village had a fairly large celebration which included performances – dance and music. I was lucky enough to witness it. So cool. Two of the staff at the House of Singing Bamboo (my home here) were involved in the performance. Wayan, the driver and pretty much doer of anything, was playing music. Made Sugeta, the gardener, was the main attraction in the dance. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.

Made Sugeta performing at the celebration

Made Sugeta comes back out as an ‘old man’

The hand gestures are amazing

Another dancer joins in. He also did a lot of speaking…wish I knew what he said…

Once the ceremony was over, it was time to hop on the motorbike and go home – still in celebration gear. I loved it. And it’s typical of Bali.

Some of the musicians.

Unfortunately we got there after the girls danced. But are they ever beautiful.

The boys performed a warrior dance. Apparently this dance was becoming a thing of the past and not being performed. But luckily there is a resurgence.

The priests close off the celebration with prayers.

Offerings made by the women. I am told there is only one God, but he takes on many forms.

Then later in the evening, my local village had a ceremony as well. Smaller in scope, but beautiful.

My hostess for the evening celebration is Annie. She is the daughter of the chef who comes to the house and cooks us dinner – Made Karsa (more on him later). Annie doesn’t want to speak much, but she made sure I knew what to do and when. She is gorgeous.

The women prepare some of the offerings as the priest performs the prayers.

The offerings. Our driver Wayan’s wife was sitting beside me. I asked her if these take a long time to make. She looked at me like I was a little nuts and said “no, no. These are easy. For big celebrations we make some that are 1.5 meters high. They take a long time.” And…they walk down the street to the temple with these offerings balanced on their head.

The villagers gather on the street for the ceremony.

He is just sooooo cute!

During this ceremony, we held up flower petals at certain times, the priest did his thing, and then you tuck the flowers petals into your hair/pony tail. Clearly, I was a little challenged with that, so I tucked them behind my ears (much to everyone’s delight). Then at the end the priest comes down and sprays you with some sort of vinegar/water mixture, then puts some in your hands (which you drink a few times, then put on your head). This apparently cleanses you – on the inside, exterior, your mind, and a general apology to God. I am now a local. 🙂

Later that night, Wayan and I were off to Denpasar to pick up Jacques.

An auspicious day indeed!